What is oud, and how to try it without fear

Oud (also called “aoud” or “agarwood”) forms in the agar tree when it defends itself against infection: the wood produces a dark, fragrant resin, and that resin is oud. Natural oud is rare and expensive, so perfumes often recreate it with a mix of natural and lab-made ingredients. It smells woody, smoky, a little leathery, and sometimes “animalic”, which is why some call it the most beautiful note in the world while others say it smells like an old barn.

The good news is that oud rarely comes alone in perfume. It's almost always wrapped in something: rose, saffron, vanilla, honey, tea or citrus. That's why oud can be learned, if you start with scents where it's just a shadow in the background, then slowly move towards those where it takes the lead.

Step one: oud you can barely hear

Mancera Aoud Lemon Mint is fresh and cool: lemon and mint up top, white musk in the base, with oud leaving just a faint woody trace. It's a good introduction because there's nothing heavy or sweet about it. Atkinsons Oud Save The King is refined and unusual: black tea with bergamot, like Earl Grey, over soft oud and sandalwood. The oud is there, but as an elegant backdrop rather than the lead.

Step two: oud wrapped in rose and vanilla

This is where most people fall for oud. Montale White Aoud is soft and creamy: saffron and rose to start, then oud softened by vanilla and amber. Swiss Arabian Shaghaf Oud is sweeter: saffron and rose, then praline and vanilla, with oud adding depth without any bite. Rosendo Mateu Nº 4 blends saffron, iris and oud into warm vanilla, rich and smooth.

Step three: oud in the spotlight

Once oud has won you over, it's time for scents where it doesn't hide. Shaghaf Oud Azraq pairs honey and oud with cinnamon and vanilla on a base of leather and patchouli: warm, stickily sweet, serious. Shaghaf Oud Aswad is darker: rose and saffron with spices like cumin and coriander, over oud, leather and amber. And French Avenue Azzure Aoud opens fruity, with passion fruit and rose, before settling into oud, leather and warm amber: proof that oud can be playful too.

You don't love oud at first sniff; you love it by the third perfume.

How to wear it

Oud is strong, so start with one or two sprays. The first ten minutes or so can feel sharp; give it time, because it calms down on skin and becomes softer and warmer. It works best in cooler weather and in the evening. And don't judge oud by a single perfume: the gap between a gentle oud and a bold one is bigger than between any two floral scents.

That's why 5 ml decants are ideal for oud: pick one from each step and see how far you like to go. Put at least three 5 ml decants in your cart and the site automatically takes 10% off.